11/19/05
Final Posting
Dan is into his first year at Stanford Graduate School of Business. Palo Alto weather is more to his liking than on the North Ridge. He has been surfing, biking and running along with some studying. Over the Thanksgiving holiday he plans to climb Mt. Shasta, California's highest peak.
Greg has taken a position with Seneca Capital in New York. It's a 15 minute walk to his office, much easier than climbing Everest. He has been staying in shape running triathlons. Katie and Greg have set a June 10th wedding date. They are thinking of honeymooning in Africa with a safari and a climb of Mt. Kilimanjaro, the tallest on the continent.
It was my great pleasure to have chronicled Greg and Dan's Big Green Everest expedition. Many thanks to all who followed their progress and rooted for their success. Your interest and enthusiasm made their adventure even more special.
Climb safe,
Bill Protz
BGE Dad
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07/28
Thursday, July 28
Greg and Dan are back to their regular routine and have time to reflect on the Everest experience. Click on the links below a personal account of their adventure.
New York - Thursday, July 14
Ang Mingma, one of the Team's Sherpas, is in the U.S. hoping to find less dangerous work. He spent a day with Greg in New York. Greg gave him a tour of the city including a trip to the top of the Empire State Building. They took the elevator.
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06/09
New York - Wednesday, June 8
Dan and Greg landed at JFK early morning June 7, on schedule. Greg's parents, Elizabeth and Greg, met them. Katie Bardzik, Greg's girl friend and the team physician, was on call and couldn't come. After a hearty breakfast and some rest at the Vadasdi's Dan flew on to Chicago. Wednesday evening, after Katie finished call, Greg greeted her with roses, champagne and the photo below. The answer was YES.
Congratulations, Greg. Best wishes, Katie.
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Climb Photos
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Administrative Note: Dan's Spam filter blocked nearly all messages sent to him prior to June 8. Please resend any important messages to Dan at DanProtz@hotmail.com. Dan apologizes for the inconvenience.
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06/05
Kathmandu, Nepal - Sunday, June 5, 6:00 PM
Crossing the border into Nepal turned out interesting. No vehicles are allowed to cross, all goods must be carried by porters to vehicles waiting on the Nepalese side. This took some time. Greg and Dan arranged for a private vehicle. It ended up being a small bus. Once underway they discovered, in addition to their gear, the driver was transporting several cartons of Chinese jeans smuggled in from Tibet. There were empty seats so the enterprising fellow picked up passengers along the way at a few Rupees each. Crazy, but after what they had been though the guys didn't care. Dan's comment, "Hey. Its Nepal... The Third World". Late afternoon they were in Kathmandu.
Dan and Greg are at The Yak and Yeti, the best hotel in Nepal. Finally, running water, flush toilets, a real bed and, maybe, mints on the pillow. Surrounded by their climbing gear, it is hard for them to believe they were at the top of Everest two days ago. Tonight they will meet friends from the Project Himalaya team for cold beer and a restaurant meal. In the morning they pack their gear and head for the airport. They are flying Thai Air though Bangkok, a 27 hour trip that lands at JFK early Tuesday, June 7.
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06/04
Nyalam, Tibet - Sunday, June 5, 8:30 AM (Climb Days - Ended)
Greg and Dan are traveling south via Land Cruiser on their way to Kathmandu. They called during a fuel stop in Nyalam, a small town a few miles north of the Nepal border. After Nyalam they pass though the Zhangmu Gorge and then cross into Nepal. They are in Kathmandu tonight, and fly out tomorrow. Dan is feeling better and sounds stronger.
Yesterday, they made the trek to BC in enough time for Asian Trekking to take them down Rongbuk Valley to Tingri, the first town. There they booked in to the local hotel. The hotel wasn't much, mud walls, a dirt floor and no mints on the pillow. Other Everest climbers were also there. Many were suffering from one malady or another. Living at high altitude for two months does take its toll. The guys are glad to be off the mountain. They had a once-in-a-life-time experience and achieved their goal. Now they are eager to get home.
For those interested, Everest '05 Coverage does an excellent job of wrapping up the 2005 Everest climbing season in their June 4th and 5th postings.
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06/03
ABC - Saturday, June 4, 8:30 AM (Climb Day 55)
The yaks have arrived and they are loading up for the trip back to BC. Last night Dan discovered he has a chest infection. The final part of their descent, North Col to ABC, was particularly hard for Dan. Around midnight he was having trouble breathing. Greg woke Julian Thompson, a physician from the UK, climbing with the Project Himalaya team who, fortunately, was in a tent near by. Julian diagnosed Dan with a chest infection, gave him antibiotics and put him on oxygen. Dan feels better now and says he is up to the trek back to BC. Many thanks to Dr. Julian for helping Dan. Word is he has tended to the medical needs of several climbers and Sherpas during his stay on the North Side. Dan promised to check in at the end of their day. Greg is doing fine.
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06/03
ABC - Friday, June 3, 11:30 PM (Climb Day 54)
Greg and Dan are now safely down at ABC. It was a tiring 6000 foot descent with packs from Camp 3. They have had a warm meal and are turning in for the night. Tomorrow the Yaks arrive and it's back to BC.
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06/02
Camp 3 - Friday, June 3, 7:45 AM (Climb Day 54)
Dan and Greg are feeling rejuvenated after the night's rest. Ang Mingma is with them cooking some for breakfast. Dan didn't know what. After breakfast they will pack up and make the descent through Camp 2, the North Col and on to ABC. Their sat phone call was short but the did relate the following.
The traverse to Northeast Ridge, climbing the First Step, and the traverse to the Second Step was in the dark with headlamps. They could only see obstacles directly in front of them. This had one advantage, they could not see the several thousand foot drop beneath them. They reached the Second step at first light, about 5 AM, and turned off the lamps. Other climbers were there, also working their way up. Scaling the slope to the Chinese ladder, which hangs from the top of the Step, was the most technically difficult part of the ascent. The slope was steep and foot-holds were small rock ledges. To reach the ladder from the top of the slope they had to edge around a rock outcrop on a narrow ledge with nothing beneath them but air. Dan said "You don't look down." Climbing the ladder proved no problem. Winds increased as they moved up the Northeast Ridge. The Summit Pyramid above the Third Step was a more difficult climb than expected. It was completely exposed to wind, steep and footing was poor. At the top they had to traverse a rock outcrop on a narrow ledge, again, fully exposed to the shear drop of the North Face. They moved across the Summit Ridge above the Pyramid in a crouched half crawl position digging in with their ice axes when hit with a strong gust. They made the Summit at 9:30. Climbers from both the North and South sides were there, but they could not converse because of the strong wind. It was a clear day and the view from the Summit was spectacular. They stayed less than a half hour, took some pictures, and started their descent.
Descent was difficult. Wind had significantly increased and gusts were strong. Their bulky 8000 meter suits were like a sail. Dan was blown down 4 to 5 time on the wind exposed ridges. The other problem was fatigue. It took 10 hours of hard climbing to make the Summit. Not only did they have to fight stronger wind on descent, but they had to make the same difficult and tiring traverses. The Second step was scary. In daylight, they could see the full extent of the drop below. They had to drop over the ridge edge and work their way down. Crampons and oxygen masks made it more difficult. By the time they reached the bottom of the First Step their adrenaline was gone and they were nearly spent. From then on they move slowly and rested more often. Ang Mingma stayed with them. Mingma Dorjee moved ahead and prepared some warm tea. They reached their tent at 3:40 PM, dehydrated and exhausted. Dan said "It's easy to see why a lot of deaths occur on descent. You could get so tired and disoriented you just want to lie down and go to sleep." Greg reported seeing 4 bodies on the way. One, below the Third Step, was the Slovenian climber lost this year. We are all glad our guys are down safe.
Thanks to all who have sent congratulatory emails and messages. The guys really appreciate them and are a little surprised at all the interest. All have been saved for them. Please send any new messages to BigGreenEverest@AOL.com or direct to Dan and Greg direct. Dan's email is danprotz@hotmail.com. Greg's email is gvadasdi@hotmail.com.
Links of Descriptions and Photos of the climb from Camp 3 to the Summit:
The Northeast Ridge The Steps The Summit
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. 06/02
Camp 3 - Thursday, June 2, 9:00 PM (Climb Day 53)
Via Sat phone from Greg: BGE summitted 9:30 AM Nepal time on June 2. The team started their traverse from Camp 3 to the Northeast Ridge at 11:30 PM, June 1 Nepal time. Ten hours later, at 9:30 AM, they made the Summit. The technical climbing was more difficult than expected, but did not give them any particular problem. Weather was clear, sunny, warmer (nearly 0 F), but windy. The view from the Summit was "Awesome". They stayed for a little less than a half hour. Even though winds became gusty, their descent through the Steps was smooth and measured. Below the First Step exhaustion and dehydration hit, they moved slowly and rested often. Once below the Northeast Ridge Mingma Dorjee moved ahead and prepared warm drinks. They arrived back at Camp 3 at 3:40 PM for a respectable climb time of 16 hours. All are in good shape, but exhausted. They have extra oxygen and will rest the night at Camp 3 before moving down to ABC in the morning. Details of climb promised soon.
Many thanks to BGE Sherpas Ang Mingma and Mingma Dorjee for taking good care of the guys and keeping them safe.
Camp 3 - Wednesday, June 1, 8:30 PM (Climb Day 52)
The BGE will move for the summit in the next few hours. Greg, Dan, Ang Mingma and Mingma Dorjee, are ready and will all attempt the Summit. Weather is not favorable for success. Yesterday, strong winds caused the two teams that attempted to turn back. Today's forecast is no better. BGE will assess the situation as they go. If it becomes unsafe they will turn around and go back to ABC. Yak teams have been arranged for June 4 to pack out their gear. This will be their one and only summit attempt. Good Luck and God Speed.
Links of Descriptions and Photos of the climb from Camp 3 to the Summit:
The Northeast Ridge The Steps The Summit
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05/31
Camp 2 - Wednesday, June 1, 8:30 AM (Climb Day 51)
Greg and Dan arrived at Camp 2 mid afternoon yesterday without incident. They spent the night on a low flow of oxygen. High winds battered the tent throughout the night. Dan slept well. Greg did not. They are now in the tent melting ice for drinking water. It is clear and the sun is warming the tent. They look down on the clouds covering the lower mountain and the Rongbuk Valley.
The June 2 forecast has deteriorated since they started up. Summit winds are now predicted to top out at 40 mph, twice what they were a few days ago. Climbers who have recently summitted report winds are the lightest predawn. It best to summit early and then move down quickly. This is what BGE plans to do. They will move up to Camp 3 today and move for the Summit late tonight.
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05/30
North Col - Tuesday, May 31, 7:30 AM (Climb Day 50)
Greg and Dan made it to the North Col with no difficulties. They climbed with full packs and made good time. It is sunny at the Col and there is little wind. They will leave for Camp 2 with their Sherpas within the hour. They are packing extra oxygen and plan to start using it on the trip up. This will help them conserve strength and will also give the equipment a prolonged final test. All team members are feeling good and have no health issues.
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05/29
Advanced Base Camp - Monday, May 30, 8:45 AM (Climb Day 49)
It has been difficult the last few days watching climbers move up the mountain. Many have summitted, but not without difficulty. Some have turned back. Weather from Camp 2 to the Summit has been windy and cold. Dan and Greg remain true to their committment to climb safe and have elected not to attempt the summit in these conditions. There have been brief periods when winds were light and conditions were good for summitting. These periods, however, could not be predicted with any accuracy. Forecasts have differed from one another and changed daily. Now the monsoon is impacting Everest weather. It is pushing the jet stream north, which make forecasts more predictable. Summit weather for the first few days of June looks to be the best of the season.
BGE will take advantage of this opportunity. They are moving up to the North Col today, and then on to Camp 2 tomorrow. Camp 2 is the most exposed camp on the Ridge. It has been hammered by high winds for the last two weeks. If the forecast holds they will move to Camp 3 on Wednesday, June 1, (CD 51). This is the highest camp and will be the start point for their summit bid. At Camp 3 they will take a short rest on oxygen and then start for the Summit. If all goes to plan they will be back at ABC or at least the North Col by dark on June 2 (CD 52).
A description and photos of the Summit Route can be found at Internal Links .
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05/26
Advanced Base Camp - Friday, May 27, 9:30 AM (Climb Day 46)
The BGE team remains at ABC as it looks like the summit window will not open as soon as initially forecast. They will assess their situation again tomorrow. The British, Russian, and Indian teams plus a few others are moving to the North Col today and tomorrow. The Norwegians left yesterday. Dan and Greg have moved back their departure to allow a later summit. They want the option of picking the best summit opportunity without being pressured by departure time.
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05/25
Advanced Base Camp - Thursday, May 26, 9:45 AM (Climb Day 45)
Yesterday Greg and Dan climbed Lhakpa Ri, a 23,100 foot peak across the glacier from ABC. At its summit they had a good view of Everest and the Northeast Ridge. Snow plumes streamed off the of Everest indicating high winds.* Nonetheless, the forecast for lighter winds starting May 28 appears to be holding. BGE plans to move up to the North Col today or tomorrow. If the weather continues to improve they will move up the North Ridge and position for a summit bid. The team's health remains good. The are rested, ready and eager to get on with it.
*(Project Himalaya climbed Lhakpa Ri a few days earlier. Once again they took some great photos. Especially interesting is the one of Everest with its snow plume.)
Those who have followed Everest this year have probably heard of problems climbers have had with their oxygen equipment. There are two oxygen systems used by climbers; 'Summit Oxygen' from England, and 'Poisk' from Russia. Some climbers have reported problems with the newer English system. BGE is using the time tested Poisk system. They will also be carrying a backup mask and regulator For detailed on the importance of oxygen at high altitude go to:
Oxygen
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05/24
Update - (Climb Day 44)
The clock is running on BGE. They must go for the Summit in the next week or pack the Yaks and move off the mountain. Today's forecast has a possible window opening starting May 28. Everyone hopes it will happen. Andy Evans, fellow Dartmouth grad and climber summitted Everest's North Side in '97. A first hand account of his experience is posted on the website. Project Himalaya has posted a first hand account of Michael Franks' May 21 summit on their website. They are similar, yet different. Both are great reads.
Andy Evans' '97 Summit Michael Franks' '05 Summit
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05/23
Advanced Base Camp - Monday, May 24, 9:30 AM (Climb Day 43)
Dan reports summitters did indeed encounter difficult conditions and that they were also lucky. Apparently, wind direction was such that the mountain blocked the worst of the wind. Cold was also a factor. Several climbers and Sherpas suffered frostbite. One of the Chinese climbers is to have said, "We probably should not have gone up". There was one death reported. It is believed the climber ran out of oxygen on decent and, unable continue, succumbed to exposure.
Dan and Greg have mixed feeling on passing this summit opportunity. On one hand they believe the would have made it had they decided to go up. On the other, they were not comfortable with the risk of the weather turning against them. They believe they made the right decision and have no regrets. The next summit window is forecast for the end of May. Both men remain healthy and have taken a few hikes in the area to stay in shape. Weather at ABC has been relatively warm, sunshine and little wind.
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05/22
Update - (Climb Day 41)
Greg and Dan have been at ABC for ten days waiting for a solid summit window. As last reported, they elected to pass on the brief and questionable summit window forecast for May 21/22. North Side climbers who decided to go for the Summit were fortunate. Conditions, though less than ideal, were acceptable. Although some turned back because of weather and equipment problems, 21 climbers and 14 Sherpas summitted from the North Side. This is less than 10% of the estimated 250 climbers still active on the North. There were no summits from the South Side. Wind, snow and the lack of fixed ropes caused all who tried to turn back and wait for another day. Project Himalaya on the North climbed to the North Col before aborting due to an ominous forecast. Their latest posting includes some photos showing what the mountain looks like at this time. Project Himalaya Posting
Back in April Katie Bardzik, Greg's girl-friend, sent it some pre-climb photos taken in Kathmandu and Lhasa. I finally have these posted. Pre-Climb Photos
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05/18
Advanced Base Camp - Thursday, May 19, 8:15 AM (Climb Day 38)
Most North Side teams have moved up to ABC. Forecasts predict a brief summit window Friday through Sunday. This window really isn't what climbers are looking for, but it is all they have for now. The jet is expected to back off the summit during the period, however it will remain in the area, just south of Everest. Monday it is expected to be back on the mountain with winds at the Summit with winds in the 70 mph range. Several teams are planning to make a summit bid in this window. (Check the news links at the left for details.) The obvious risk is an early return of the jet. Temperatures are also colder than normal, increasing the chance of frostbite. The lack of fixed rope is another problem. Rope has been fixed from Camp 3 up to the Northeast Ridge. It has not been fixed to the top of the First Step as earlier reported. Climbers will need to fix rope up the Northeast Ridge or use unreliable old rope..
After weighing the risks BGE has decided to remain at ABC and wait for a more favorable window. There is still plenty of time left. Summit windows most frequently occurs in late May as the Indian Monsoon moves North. Food in at ABC menu has been Yak meat, fried Spam, eggs, and potatoes. There team performed their pre-climb Puja. Project Himalaya photographed them after the ceremony. Thanks PH. Team Photo
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05/15
Advanced Base Camp - Monday, May 16, 8:30 AM (Climb Day 35)
The Norwegians are back at ABC. Conditions are to severe to stay at higher levels much less to make a bid for the Summit. Their Sherpas managed to set rope to the top of the First Step (28,000 ft). One of them suffered frostbite, said to be a mild case, but none the less serious enough to seek medical attention off the mountain. Winds at the First Step yesterday were forecast at 40 mph with temperatures of below -20 Fahrenheit. The wind chill is off the chart.
Ang Mingma and Mingma Dorjee are back at ABC after completing their carry to Camp 3. They reported difficult conditions due to the high wind. Other Sherpas are making equipment carries to the North Ridge camps, but no one is moving up for a summit bid. Teams remain at ABC or BC waiting for a summit window to open. BGE is as eager to summit as anyone, however, they are resolved not to move until a solid summit window opens.
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05/14
Advanced Base Camp - Saturday, May 14, 9:30 AM (Climb Day 33)
Greg and Dan made the trek to ABC on May 13 (CD 32) arriving late in the day. They met with Ang Mingma and Mingma Dorjee, BGE's Sherpas, who had just come back from their carry up the North Ridge. The Sherpas had planned to take oxygen and equipment up to Camp 3, the highest camp, but were turned back by high winds. They made it to Camp 2 only to find BGE's equipment tent destroyed by the wind. Thanks to Greg no equipment was lost; he had the foresight to tie down the equipment inside the tent before they left on May 1 (CD 20). Ang Mingma and Mingma Dorjee will rest a day or two and then go up the Ridge to replace the tent at Camp 2 and take the oxygen and equipment to Camp 3. Dan and Greg will stay at ABC. They have learned it is impossible to keep up with the near super-human Sherpas.
Weather continues to be the story at Everest. Although winds have abated some, they are still expected to top 70 mph at the Summit today, Saturday. Forecasts predict high altitude winds will ease Saturday night and possibly to drop to 20 mph for a short period Monday. The current weather model puts the jet back on Everest Tuesday with winds surging back up to above 50 mph at the Summit. Should this forecast hold true a narrow summit window will open early Monday. To capitalize on this short, albeit risky, opportunity a team must be in position at Camp 3 ready to strike for the Summit if conditions are right. It looks as though the Norwegians may do this. They were seen making their way up the North Ridge toward Camp 2 Saturday morning when Dan called. A likely plan for them would be to overnight at Camp 2, move to Camp 3 Sunday and then start for the Summit shortly after midnight. If they can be on the Northeast Ridge by daylight, they have a good chance for an early summit. They will need to move fast. Their risk is an earlier than expected return of the jet and/or snow, a possibility of which is in the forecast.
BGE plans to sit tight at ABC for now. Their Sherpas will need a day or two rest when they come down from the Ridge. The next possible summit window is forecast for May 19 - 22. BGE will be ready.
The links below explain how the jet stream and monsoon impact Everest's climbing weather.
MountEverest.net - The scoop on the Everest Weather Window
Adventure Weather - Special Report on the 2005 Everest Weather
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05/12
Base Camp - May 12, 9:00 AM (Climb Day 31)
It has been a weather waiting game for BGE and the other North Side teams. Greg and Dan delayed their trip to ABC due the strong winds above 25,000 ft. The weather has been pleasant at BC. They have taken a few hikes in the area, played more chess and consumed more Lhasa rice beer. On Monday they rented a motorcycle from an enterprising local to visit Brazilian friends staying at a hostel down the Rongbuk Valley. Returning, the clutch failed and they had to walk back to BC. That proved to be a good endurance building exercise. Most teams are at BC. Conditions at ABC or at even the North Col are not bad, however, there is no point in being at higher altitudes unless a weather window is going to open. It is better to stay at BC and conserve strength.
The jet stream is forecast to move off Everest early next week bringing lighter winds near the summit and a possible summit window a few days later. Greg and Dan plan to move to ABC May 13 or 14 (CD 32/33). The Sherpas are leaving BC today for ABC. From ABC the Sherpas will move up the North Ridge to check tents and equipment. The BGE team are all in good health and feel ready for the summit.
Dan estimates there are over 200 climbers on the North Side this year. Many are in large guided groups. Some are experienced, fit, and able, while others are less so. There is only one route up the mountain, if large numbers start out at the first weather opening all climbers will be slowed and safety could be compromised. Dan and Greg have some concern about this.
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Website Updated
> Pages added describing the route to the Summit. Click on Internal Links at left.
> A link to the best general Everest News site added at left.
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05/08
Base Camp - May 7, 10:45 AM (Climb Day 26)
Dan and Greg arrived back in Base Camp on May 4 (Climb Day 23) from their acclimatization climb to Camp 3. BC weather has been good; light winds, sunshine with mild temperatures during the day and parka weather at night. They have even been able to shower. They spent the last few days playing chess, reading old Wall Street Journals Greg brought (?), and talking with other teams. Everest dominates the southern horizon. Snow plumes caused by the jet stream are clearly visible streaming from the summit.
A few local entrepreneurs are selling tea, food, and Lhasa brewed rice beer out of a Yak hair tent. Greg and Dan have had the tea and beer, but passed on the food. They have been eating meals in the cook tent with their Sherpas and have come to know them on a more personal level. They remain impressed with their Sherpas. Everyone is in good health, however they are bored.
Their plan is for the move back to ABC on May 11 (CD 30). The Sherpas will go ahead of them and climb to the North Ridge Camps. They will carry up more supplies, oxygen and check on the tents and equipment left up there. They will then join Dan and Greg at ABC to wait for the summit weather to improve. Brice's Sherpas have set rope to the Camp 3 area. This week, weather permitting, they will set rope to the top of the Second Step. They will leave enough rope at the top of the step for the first climber up to fix rope to the summit.
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05/07
Everest News
Weather continues to be the news on Everest. Snow fall has been heavy. Additional snow is expected to be light on the weekend, but then the jet stream moves in. It is expected to stay though most of next week. The computer model used to forecast Everest weather has summit winds at 85 mph on Wednesday. Winds at 25,000' and above (C2 & C3) are now forecast to top out at 45 mph midweek, while winds at BC and ABC will be in the low twenties.
Today Project Himalaya posted photos taken May 5 & 6 which show the current snowy conditions on the North Ridge.
Current Photos
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05/06
2005 Photos
Project Himalaya has posted current photos of the North Side. PH photos are the best and these show what is it like where BGE is right now.
2005 Photos
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05/05
Everest News
Weather
The ME area has been hit with heavy snow fall for the last few days. These storms are expected to continue through the end of the week. On the weekend the jet stream is expected to return. Winds of 65 mph and higher are forecast for 25,000 ft and above early next week. This will keep climbers off the mountain. Looks like BGE made their trip up at the right time.
South Side
Climber Mike O'Brien, 39, died May 2nd after falling into a crevasse in the Khumbu Icefall. The Icefall lies between South Side Base Camp and Camp 1. South Side climbers must cross it every time they move up the mountain for acclimatization. It is unstable, unpredictable and considered one of the most dangerous obstacles on the mountain. Statistically, the highest percentage of deaths on Everest occur in the Khumbu Icefall. Climbing the North Side, BGE avoids this obstacle.
Camp 1 on the South Side was hit by an avalanche on May 3rd. Fortunately, there were no fatalities. South Side Camp 1 lies in an area above the Khumbu Ice Fall and below the next South Side obstacle, the Western Cwm. Recent snow falls have heightened avalanche danger. Mark Tucker, leader of International Mountain Guides (IMG) Everest expedition, was coming down the mountain and was above Camp 1 when the avalanche hit. Mark guided Greg and Dan's trip to Mount Elbrus, Russia in 2001. When Dan and Greg were at Camp 2 they made radio contact with Mark who was on an acclimatization climb on the South Side.
Click on link for detail on above: News Dispatch
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05/02
Advanced Base Camp - May 3, 8:45 AM (Climb Day 22)
Greg and Dan successfully completed their climb to Camp 2. On April 27 (CD 16) they made the 13 mile trek from BC to ABC. There was steady snow fall for most of the trip, but they were able to stay on route without difficulty. The trip took 9 hours. After a day's rest they climbed to the North Col on Aril 29 (CD 18) and to stay the night. Fewer climbers were on the route this time as snow storms were forecast for the Everest area. Their Sherpas, who remained at ABC, came up to the Col early the next morning (CD 19) for the climb to Camp 2. The climb to Camp 2 covers the most exposed section of the North Ridge. Winds were strong and wind chill was well below zero. Skin would begin to ache within seconds of being exposed. They ascended on fixed ropes with crampons. The first three quarters of the climb was on snow covered slope. The last quarter was up loose rock and shale. None of the terrain was technically difficult, but the trip was exhausting. It took 8 hours. The last hour was the most taxing. Wind gusts, loose rock and the lack of oxygen slowed movement to step, rest, step. Their heart rate monitors registered a constant 160 to 170 bpm.
Camp 2 at 25,600 feet is just below the critical 26,000 foot level. Above this level even an acclimated climber's body begins shut down from lack of oxygen. Dan and Greg spent the night in a two man tent, dressed in their "8000 meter" down suits and inside extreme temperature down bags. They were still cold. Dinner was chili heated on a small high altitude stove. They estimated winds the next morning, May 2 (CD 20), at over 60 mph. When the winds subsided the team descended to ABC without incident. This was an acclimatization trip so they did not use oxygen. When they make their summit attempt they will start on oxygen at Camp 2. This will allow their bodies to burn more calories, which will increase strength and stamina and keep them warmer.
Greg and Dan plan to rest at ABC and then move back to BC on May 4 (CD). Their acclimatization period now complete they will rest at BC and wait for the weather to improve. It is early in the climb period for Everest. The normal window for summitting is mid to late May. The current forecast calls for snow over the Everest area for next week. Snow on the mountain is dry and packed firm by the wind. Dan and Greg feel this should improve the footing. Both men are feeling good, no health issues. They avoid contact with other climbers as much as possible. Some climbers have caught a flu like bug and left. Once sick your strength drains, even at BC, and it is difficult to recover.
Links to
The North Col and Camp 2
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04/25
Base Camp - April 26, 9:30 AM (Climb Day 15)
Greg and Dan are at Base Camp recuperating from their trip at the North Col and short climb up the North Ridge. The climb went as planned. (See 4/19 update) On April 22 (CD 11) they made the climb to the North Col, again with full 35 pound packs. There were more climbers on the route this time which slowed them down. Dan felt their time would have been close to 4 hours if the route were clear. ( Note: Many climbers do not carry gear, their Sherpas do it.) BGE Sherpas moved up to the Col ahead of Dan and Greg. Weather at the Col was good, light winds and temperatures near freezing during the day. Tents at the Col are single man, food is freeze dried, cooked on a small stove. Sleeping is difficult at this altitude. Dan estimates they got about 5 hours in. In the morning they hiked a short distance up the North Ridge. The terrain is not steep, but it is exposed to the wind and in the thin air progress is slow. They used their one piece full down, "8000 meter", suits for the first time. That afternoon they descended to ABC, spent the night and returned to Base Camp on April 24 as planned. BGE Sherpas stayed at ABC. They will move gear to Camp 2, the next camp up from the North Col.
Greg and Dan plan to leave BC for ABC April 27 (CD 16). They will not stop at Interim Camp as they did on the first trip. After a day's rest at ABC the will climb to the Col, overnight and continue on to Camp 2. They will overnight at Camp 2, move back to the Col, overnight, descend to ABC, and then move back to Base Camp on May 2. The acclimatization phase of the trip will then be complete. At Base Camp they will rest and wait for favorable summit weather.
Both Dan and Greg are healthy, only occasional head aches and dry throats. There are now more climbers on the route. Some do not appear to be up to the task at hand. A group near BGE at ABC had only 3 climbers out of 10 make it to the Col on their first attempt.
Next sat phone call expect on May 2.
Check out
Internal Links for descriptions and photo of the route.
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04/19
Advanced Base Camp - April 20, 9:45 AM (Climb Day 9)
Yesterday, April 19 (CD 8) BGE made their first climb to the North Col. They made it in under 5 hours with 35 pound packs, an excellent time. Their Sherpas made it in 3 hours. The route was icy with less snow than normal. Climbing was not difficult (no ice axes required) except for a 10 meter ice wall that was nearly vertical. This year the North Col is covered with heavily canvassed ice and little snow. BGE staked out their tent site, unloaded gear, and descended to ABC without spending the night. They plan to rest today and tomorrow at ABC and then climb to the Col again on April 22 (CD 11). They will spend the night and, conditions permitting, climb a short distance up the North Ridge the following morning. In the afternoon they will descend to ABC, stay the night and then move back to BC on April 24 (CD 13) for rest at a lower altitude. This routine of conditioning at high altitude and rest at low altitude is important. Climbers must get used to working high on the mountain, but can not stay to long as the altitude saps strength quickly.
Greg and Dan feel good, fewer headaches now. The two of them share a four man tent at ABC and they have a separate mess tent. The wind has subsided and the sun is warm during day. It gets cold quickly once the sun goes down. Sunrise is 5:30 and sunset is 6:30 Nepal time. They wait until the sun warms the tent before getting out of their bags. There are more teams at ABC now. Head count is about 200 including support staff.
Click here for a description and photos of
Climbing to the North Col.
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04/17
Click here for a description and photos of Advanced Base Camp.
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04/16
Advanced Base Camp - April 17, 9:15 AM (Climb Day 6)
The entire BGE team (Dan, Greg, Sherpas, Cook and Helper) plus yaks with gear left BC on 4/15 (CD 4) for ABC. They hiked 6 hours to Interim Camp were they rested and spent the night. Their only difficulty was finding a place for the tents not covered with frozen yak dung. The trek to ABC the next day took another 6 hours. Terrain on the way up from BC was not difficult, mostly rocky gravel, no climbing required. However, the trip was exhausting due to heavy packs and thin air.
ABC is windy, dusty and dry. Temperature is near 0 F at night and warms to just above freezing in the day's sun. Tents are secured with heavy nets weighted down with boulders. They are comfortable inside, but shake violently when hit with the 60 mph wind gusts. Food is soup and stew with pasta and rice. Not gourmet, but enough calories to keep from losing weight. Both Greg and Dan feel good except for slight headaches, common during the first few days above 20,000'.
BGE is one of the first teams to arrive at ABC along with a Korean team and a few others. Two dozen or so Sherpas working for Russell Brice's guide group are also at ABC. They will clear climb route of old unreliable rope left in previous years and properly secure new line. This will speed climbing and increase safety for all teams. Climbers are each contributing $100 to the effort.
Today BGE plans an acclimatization hike to start point of the climb their next higher camp, the North Col (Camp 1). Tomorrow they will rest. The following day they hope to make the climb and set tents at the North Col (C1). Weather permitting they will remain the night before they return to ABC on April 20 (CD 9).
Dan and Greg continue be impressed with their Sherpas. They have observed and met those from other teams and found none better. The father of Minga Dorjee, one of their Sherpas, was the third Sherpa to summit Everest.
Note: At the request of the Sherpas, who are Nepalese, BGE will use Nepal time for the climb. Nepal time is GMT +5 3/4 Hrs or EDT + 9 3/4 Hrs.
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04/12
Click here for a description and photos of
Base Camp.
Everest Fact: Air at Base Camp (17,000') has half the oxygen of air at sea level.
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04/10 via Sat Phone
Base Camp - April 11, 1:30 PM (Climbing Period - Day 1)
The the drive to BC from Tingri on 4/10 was miserable. The road was rough, dusty, and high winds kept visibility near zero. Made a short stop at the Rongbuk Monastery. Not much could be seen, to much blowing dust. BC winds were 55 mph on arrival. Spent more time with the BGE Sherpas. Minga Dorjee speaks very good English and has one North Side accent to his credit. Ang Minga knows some English and has summitted the North Side 3 times. Both have worked for Russell Brice (top North Side guide). They are experienced, professional, and nice guys too.
Today, 4/11, there is less wind. The sun is out. It is warm in the tent, but you need a parka outside. BC is a large area. BGE tents are near teams from India, England and Norway. Everest is visible. A mile long snow plume is blowing west from the summit. The sight is "awesome and humbling".
Staying 4 days at BC, will do some short hikes for altitude acclimatization. Sherpas will hire Yaks (need 12) and pack gear for trek to ABC (Advance Base Camp).
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04/08 AM via Internet
Posted below is an email from Dan
Shigatse, Tibet - April 8, 6:30PM
We are now in Shigatse after spending 8 hours in the car on some really bumpy dirt and rock roads. We crossed a pass today that was 17,000 feet. But now we are back at 12K. Shigatse is a reasonable sized city. Very dusty and dirty. Saw a lot of nomads along the route and ate lunch in a nomad tent with a packed dirt floor. Pretty cool. Had a slight run in with the Chinese army. We got in the middle of a convoy of some 100+ military vehicles. They checked through our Land Cruiser.
Will try to write as we approach BC, but Internet may be unavailable. Tomorrow we are in Tingri which is supposed to be really primitive. and then the next night in Base Camp. Once we figure out the lay of the land there we can pull out the sat phone.
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04/07 PM
Click here for a description and photos of the drive
To Base Camp..
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04/07 AM
Posted below is an email from Dan
Lhasa, Tibet - April 7, 1:30PM
Not much to report today. More sight seeing. Have bought gifts today. Greg is a bit sick. Tomorrow we leave for Shigatse. Its 7+ hours by car. The future stops promise to be much more primitive so you may not hear from us until we reach base camp and get ahold of our satellite phone.
Tibet is incredible. Katie will have lots of photos and can fill you in on details when she returns to the states on Sunday.
Dan
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04/06 AM
Posted below is an email from Greg
Hello from Lhasa, Tibet - April 6
Pretty wild here. We visited the Potala (ex-home/throne of the Dali Lama) This morning, amazing. The place is huge. The weather has been great. Lhasa is at 11,800 and surrounded by snow covered peaks in the 15 to 17k range.
Katie, Dan and I are doing very well and the Tibetan Mountaineering Association hotel we are staying at is really nice, clean and modern. A huge relief. There is also an enormous outdoor climbing wall on the premises, we have been bouldering a bit. The TMA is shepherding us around to all the sights, meals, etc. There are a number of other groups climbing the NE ridge staying with us here in Lhasa, so whenever we travel we move in a convoy of Toyota Land Cruisers = pretty nice.
We are traveling with about 12 other people. Three of them are doing only the N. Col with Russell Brice (Brice is one of the best Everest guides), and most of the others are with Summit Climb - Dan Mazur's group. There are people from Boulder, CO, San Marino and Sweden, and that is only half of the people I have spoken with.
The flight from Kath. yesterday was super, we had amazing views of the whole Nepal Himalayas: Shishapangma, Co Oyu, Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Katchenjunga all 8,000 meter peaks. We saw both the South Col and the Northeast ridge routes clearly, the air was very clear.
It was a 2 hour jeep ride from the airport to Lhasa. Tomorrow (Thurs) we will do some more sight seeing and maybe go for a shot acclimatization hike in the PM. The name of the game here is sightseeing, getting used to the altitude, buying trinkets, and taking it easy. On Friday we will start the three day drive to BC.
Katie should have great photos from her digital camera for the site when she gets back the States on Sunday.
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04/04 PM
Kathmandu, Nepal
Katie Bradzik, Greg's long time girl friend and a fellow Dartmouth grad, arrived today. Katie is a surgical resident in orthopedics and will be the team physician until they leave for BC (Base Camp). All the equipment checked out okay and the sat phone is working. The team took time out to visit the famous Kathmandu Monkey Temple. Meals have been Western style so far, no yak meat yet. The team flies to Lhasa, the capital of Tibet, tomorrow.
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04/02 AM
Kathmandu, Nepal
More good news on the team's Sherpas. They have a total of 5 summits on Everest. Three from the North side along the team's route. Met a Russian team also doing the north side. One of their leaders was an assistant guide on the Mt. Elbrus Russia climb. Will spend the day organizing personal gear, testing radios and shopping for last minute needs.
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04/01
Kathmandu, Nepal
Arrived Ktm and met with head climbing sherpa, cook and helper hired from Asian Trekking. They appear to be well organized and competent. Reviewed oxygen, regulators, masks, tent, cook gear and other gear ordered through AT. All was in good order and quality was top notch. Trying to figure out satellite phone.
Sites for a photo tour of Katmandu.
(Project Himalayas) - (Geocities)
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Update - 03/29/05
Trip Itinerary
- March 30 - Leave JFK.
- April 1 - Arrive Kathmandu, Nepal.
- April 2-4 - Obtain Chinese visa / Sightsee in Kathmandu.
- April 5 - Fly to Lhasa, Tibet China. (Elevation 12,000 ft.)
- April 6-7 - Lhasa sightseeing. (Climbers will also begin acclimatizing to altitude)
- April 8 - Drive to Shigatse. (12,500 ft.)
- April 9 - Drive to Tingri (Shegar). (13,800 ft.)
- April 10 - Drive to Everest Base Camp (BC). (17,000 ft.)
- April 11-13 - Setup BC and acclimatize.
- April 14 - Trek to Interim Camp (IC). (20,300 ft.)
- April 15 - Arrive at Advance Base Camp (ABC). (21,300 ft.) File taxes.
- Apr 16 - 27 May - Climbing Period. (Setup advance camps 2, 3 & 4. Summit.)
- May 28 - Return to Advance Base Camp (ABC).
- May 29 - Return to Base Camp (BC).
- May 30 - Disassemble BC.
- May 31 - Drive to Nyalam Tibet.
- June 1 - Drive to Kathmandu.
- June 2 - Rest in Kathmandu.
- June 3 - Depart for US.
